Il cappero
La rigogliosa vegetazione che conferisce all’isola di Ustica quel fascino esotico dai mille colori, si pregia di alcune tra le migliori specie autoctone di tutto il Mediterraneo.
Una di queste è il cappero o come lo chiamano gli isolani chiapparo .
Nome scientifico dell’arbusto: capparis spinosa. In natura nasce spontaneamente in luoghi ventilati e ricchi di calcare, essendo poi un lontano cugino delle piante grasse, il suo fabbisogno d’acqua è davvero esiguo.
Ad Ustica non è difficile trovarne in abbondanza un po’ ovunque, radicato per lo più sui muretti che costeggiano le strade di campagna o sulle rupi scoscese.
La coltivazione del cappero su terreno agricolo non presenta particolari difficoltà anzi, la pianta ben si adatta alla terra usticese capace di esaltarne la ramificazione e la fioritura.
Lasciamo a fonti più autorevoli il compito di approfondire l’aspetto biologico di questa specie e le relative tecniche di impianto e/o semina, ricordiamo solo che quello consumato abitualmente e conosciuto come cappero è in realtà il bocciolo della pianta e non il suo frutto.
I frutti dei capperi, che prendono il nome di cucunci, solo recentemente hanno incuriosito il palato collettivo conquistando i buffet di ogni ‘happy hour’ che si rispetti, ma la loro produzione sull’isola è ancora molto limitata.
Così come avviene per i capperi anche i cucunci vengono conservati sotto sale, sotto aceto, in salamoia e più raramente sott’olio.
Il metodo di conservazione più tradizionale utilizzato dai contadini è quello sotto sale e curiosamente il prodotto non viene venduto a peso bensì a “buttigghie” (sì bottiglie, quelle classiche dei succhi di frutta).
Un souvenir da Ustica?
Una buttigghia di chiappari e un pacco di lenticchie.
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